Container gardening is an easy way to garden, especially when you lack yard space.
In addition to providing 5 hours or more of full sun, you must give attention to choosing the proper container, using a good soil mix, observing planting and space requirements, fertilizing, watering, and selecting appropriate varieties.
Here are our recommendations on which vegetable varieties are container-friendly—and which container types are most suitable for each veggie.
Beans, snap
Container: 5-gallon window box
Varieties: Bush 'Blue Lake', Bush 'Romano', 'Tender Crop'
Broccoli
Container: 1 plant/5 gallon pot, 3 plants/15-gallon tub
Varieties: 'DeCicco', 'Green Comet'
Carrots
Container: 5-gallon window box at least 12 inches deep
Varieties: 'Danvers Half Long', 'Short 'n Sweet', 'Tiny Sweet'
Cucumbers
Container: 1 plant/1-gallon pot
Varieties: 'Patio Pik', 'Pot Luck', 'Spacemaster'
Eggplant
Container: 5-gallon pot
Varieties: 'Black Beauty', 'Ichiban', 'Slim Jim'
Lettuce
Container: 5-gallon window box
Varieties: 'Ruby', 'Salad Bowl'
Onions
Container: 5-gallon window box
Varieties: 'White Sweet Spanish', 'Yellow Sweet Spanish'
Peppers
Container: 1 plant/2-gallon pot, 5 plants/15-gallon tub
Varieties: 'Cayenne', 'Long Red', 'Sweet Banana', 'Wonder', 'Yolo'
Radishes
Container: 5-gallon window box
Varieties: 'Cherry Belle', 'Icicle'
Tomatoes
Container: Bushel basket
Varieties: 'Early Girl', 'Patio', 'Small Fry', 'Sweet 100', 'Tiny Tim'
Tips for Growing in Containers
Clay pots are usually more attractive than plastic ones, but plastic pots retain moisture better. To get the best of both, slip a plastic pot into a slightly larger clay pot.
Avoid small containers. They often can't store enough water to get through hot days.
Add about 1 inch of course gravel in the bottom of the container to improve drainage.
Vegetables that can be easily transplanted are best suited for containers. Transplants can be purchased from local nurseries or started at home.
Feed container plants at least twice a month with liquid fertilizer, following the instructions on the label.
An occasional application of fish emulsion or compost will add trace elements to container soil.
Place containers where they will receive maximum sunlight and good ventilation. Watch for and control insect pests.
Showing posts with label Planting A Garden. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Planting A Garden. Show all posts
Saturday, November 21, 2009
Instructions For Planting Tomatoes
How to Plant Tomatoes
By Susan M. Keenan
Tomatoes, available in over 25,000 varieties and several colors, are easy to plant and grow. Typically, the varieties that grow best in your area will be sold in your area. You can always consult a garden book, website, or seed catalog for more information on various varieties of tomatoes.
Step by Step Instructions for Planting Tomatoes:
1.After the potential danger of frost in your area has passed, purchase your tomato plants. If you are growing your plants from seed, start at least six to eight weeks before the last frost is expected.
2.Adjust your tomato plants to the outdoors before planting them. Place them outside during the day once the weather warms up and the temperature consistently reaches 50°F. Once the nighttime temperatures consistently reach 50°F, place the plants outside fro the entire day and night.
3.Select the planting location. Tomatoes need lots of sun. Therefore, you need to select an area that receives full sun. Ideally, the soil should have a pH between 6.0 and 7.0.
4.Prepare the soil by adding fertilizer or compost since tomatoes prefer soil that is rich in organic matter.
5.Plants should be spaced about 12 to 18 inches from each other. Check the information that came with your plants or seed packet to determine the exact spacing required for your variety of tomato.
6.Dig a hole for the plant. The hole should be about the size of a full size soccer ball.
7.Once the plants begin to bear flowers, they are ready to be planted in the outside plot. Place the tomato plant in the hole and gently fill the remaining area with a mixture of soil and compost or fertilizer. Firm the soil around the base of the plant. If you plant the tomato plant deeply, you will encourage the growth of the roots. It is okay to cover the branches of your plant as long as you allow the top four branches to remain above the surface of the ground.
8.Precautionary measures can be taken as well to protect your plant. Place a paper collar at the base of each tomato plant to deter cutworms.
9.Place a stake, tomato cage, or small trellis next to each plant. As the tomato plant grows, secure it loosely with soft twine. Check the ties periodically as the plant grows and adjust them accordingly. If the tie becomes too restrictive, loosen it.
10.Water your plants on a regular basis. Pick the fruits as they ripen.
By Susan M. Keenan
Tomatoes, available in over 25,000 varieties and several colors, are easy to plant and grow. Typically, the varieties that grow best in your area will be sold in your area. You can always consult a garden book, website, or seed catalog for more information on various varieties of tomatoes.
Step by Step Instructions for Planting Tomatoes:
1.After the potential danger of frost in your area has passed, purchase your tomato plants. If you are growing your plants from seed, start at least six to eight weeks before the last frost is expected.
2.Adjust your tomato plants to the outdoors before planting them. Place them outside during the day once the weather warms up and the temperature consistently reaches 50°F. Once the nighttime temperatures consistently reach 50°F, place the plants outside fro the entire day and night.
3.Select the planting location. Tomatoes need lots of sun. Therefore, you need to select an area that receives full sun. Ideally, the soil should have a pH between 6.0 and 7.0.
4.Prepare the soil by adding fertilizer or compost since tomatoes prefer soil that is rich in organic matter.
5.Plants should be spaced about 12 to 18 inches from each other. Check the information that came with your plants or seed packet to determine the exact spacing required for your variety of tomato.
6.Dig a hole for the plant. The hole should be about the size of a full size soccer ball.
7.Once the plants begin to bear flowers, they are ready to be planted in the outside plot. Place the tomato plant in the hole and gently fill the remaining area with a mixture of soil and compost or fertilizer. Firm the soil around the base of the plant. If you plant the tomato plant deeply, you will encourage the growth of the roots. It is okay to cover the branches of your plant as long as you allow the top four branches to remain above the surface of the ground.
8.Precautionary measures can be taken as well to protect your plant. Place a paper collar at the base of each tomato plant to deter cutworms.
9.Place a stake, tomato cage, or small trellis next to each plant. As the tomato plant grows, secure it loosely with soft twine. Check the ties periodically as the plant grows and adjust them accordingly. If the tie becomes too restrictive, loosen it.
10.Water your plants on a regular basis. Pick the fruits as they ripen.
Growing Great Tomatoes
Growing Great Tomatoes
By Celeste Stewart
Nothing quite compares to biting into a fresh tomato. The ones you buy at the supermarket may look red and delicious but often lack the full-bodied flavor and juiciness that only a homegrown tomato can deliver. That's because store bought tomatoes are picked well before their prime. In addition, numerous measures are used to ripen the tomato or make it look more appealing. The usual result - bland, flavorless, and pink.
There's no mistaking a ripe, fresh, homegrown tomato. Abundant flavors, a rich color, and the perfect juicy texture that yields to your bite with a burst of seeds and flesh are second to none. Today's garden tomatoes come in heirloom varieties reminiscent of days gone by as well as easy-growing varieties. And just because the stores don't know how to, or aren't willing to, deliver perfection in a tomato, it doesn't mean you can't achieve tomato perfection on your own.
Guidelines for Growing Perfect Tomatoes
Growing tomatoes is easier than you may think when you know the basics of tomato planting. First, tomatoes love heat. With the right tools, even cooler areas can make use of heat to grow these hearty plants. If you live in USDA zone 3 or warmer, growing tomatoes during the warmer months is possible. Buy your tomato plants at a good quality nursery after the frost danger has passed, or start seedlings in your home or greenhouse about six to eight weeks before you expect the last frost.
Harden the plants or seedlings before you plan on planting them. You can do this by placing them outdoors in the garden area when nighttime temperatures stay above 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
You'll want to take heat into account when choosing the area where you will plant your seedlings or young tomato plants. Find a sunny location that is sheltered from cooling breezes and wind. If needed, you can create your own wind break with a vine-covered trellis or plant alongside a sheltering garden wall.
Soil plays a role in tomato growth. Tomatoes prefer soil with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0 and soil that is rich in organic matter. Use plenty of compost including crushed eggshells.
Dig a large hole (about the size of a basketball) for each plant and plant the young tomato plants deeply - as deep as up to the fourth set of leaves from the top. This encourages new root development which will serve your tomato plants well as they grow. Plant each plant about a foot to a foot and a half apart.
Cooler climates can take advantage of special products designed to reflect warmth and insulate the plants such as "walls of water."
Protect your plants from insects and cool temperatures by using a garden weed cloth. When the weather warms up, you can remove the cloth and replace it with mulch. This is a good time to install supports such as tomato cages that will be used to support the plants as they grow.
Water your tomato plants regularly and deeply, between one and two inches of water per week. Pick your tomatoes once the color has ripened to an even, glossy color and when the fruit feels somewhere between soft and firm. You'll love the true, tomato flavors and the luscious texture of a homegrown tomato.
No matter where you live, chances are you can find one out of over 25,000 varieties of heirloom and hybrid tomatoes that will meet your climate's specific growing conditions.
By Celeste Stewart
Nothing quite compares to biting into a fresh tomato. The ones you buy at the supermarket may look red and delicious but often lack the full-bodied flavor and juiciness that only a homegrown tomato can deliver. That's because store bought tomatoes are picked well before their prime. In addition, numerous measures are used to ripen the tomato or make it look more appealing. The usual result - bland, flavorless, and pink.
There's no mistaking a ripe, fresh, homegrown tomato. Abundant flavors, a rich color, and the perfect juicy texture that yields to your bite with a burst of seeds and flesh are second to none. Today's garden tomatoes come in heirloom varieties reminiscent of days gone by as well as easy-growing varieties. And just because the stores don't know how to, or aren't willing to, deliver perfection in a tomato, it doesn't mean you can't achieve tomato perfection on your own.
Guidelines for Growing Perfect Tomatoes
Growing tomatoes is easier than you may think when you know the basics of tomato planting. First, tomatoes love heat. With the right tools, even cooler areas can make use of heat to grow these hearty plants. If you live in USDA zone 3 or warmer, growing tomatoes during the warmer months is possible. Buy your tomato plants at a good quality nursery after the frost danger has passed, or start seedlings in your home or greenhouse about six to eight weeks before you expect the last frost.
Harden the plants or seedlings before you plan on planting them. You can do this by placing them outdoors in the garden area when nighttime temperatures stay above 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
You'll want to take heat into account when choosing the area where you will plant your seedlings or young tomato plants. Find a sunny location that is sheltered from cooling breezes and wind. If needed, you can create your own wind break with a vine-covered trellis or plant alongside a sheltering garden wall.
Soil plays a role in tomato growth. Tomatoes prefer soil with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0 and soil that is rich in organic matter. Use plenty of compost including crushed eggshells.
Dig a large hole (about the size of a basketball) for each plant and plant the young tomato plants deeply - as deep as up to the fourth set of leaves from the top. This encourages new root development which will serve your tomato plants well as they grow. Plant each plant about a foot to a foot and a half apart.
Cooler climates can take advantage of special products designed to reflect warmth and insulate the plants such as "walls of water."
Protect your plants from insects and cool temperatures by using a garden weed cloth. When the weather warms up, you can remove the cloth and replace it with mulch. This is a good time to install supports such as tomato cages that will be used to support the plants as they grow.
Water your tomato plants regularly and deeply, between one and two inches of water per week. Pick your tomatoes once the color has ripened to an even, glossy color and when the fruit feels somewhere between soft and firm. You'll love the true, tomato flavors and the luscious texture of a homegrown tomato.
No matter where you live, chances are you can find one out of over 25,000 varieties of heirloom and hybrid tomatoes that will meet your climate's specific growing conditions.
Wednesday, November 11, 2009
Beginners Vegetable Garden
If you're a beginner vegetable gardener, remember this: It's better to be proud of a small garden than to be frustrated by a big one!
One of the common errors for beginners is planting too much too soon and way more than anybody could eat or want. Unless you want to have zucchini taking up residence in your attic, plan carefully. Start small.
The Very Basics
Here are some very basic concepts on topics you'll want to explore further as you become a vegetable gardener extraordinaire:
Vegetables love the sun. They require six hours (continuous, if possible) of sunlight each day, at least.
Vegetables must have good, loamy, well-drained soil. Most backyard soil is not perfect and needs a helping hand. Check with your local nursery or county extension office about soil testing, soil types, and soil enrichment.
Placement is everything. Like humans, vegetables need proper nutrition. A vegetable garden too near a tree will lose its nutrients to the tree's greedy root system. On the other hand, a garden close to the house will help to discourage wild animals from nibbling away your potential harvest.
Vegetables need lots of water, at least one inch of water a week. In the early spring, walk around your property to see where the snow melts first, when the sun catches in warm pockets. This will make a difference in how well your vegetables grow.
Study those seed catalogs and order early.
Deciding How Big
A good-size beginner vegetable garden is 10x16 feet and features crops that are easy to grow. A plot this size, planted as suggested below, can feed a family of four for one summer, with a little extra for canning and freezing (or giving away).
Vegetables that may yield more than one crop per season are beans, beets, carrots, cabbage, kohlrabi, lettuce, radishes, rutabagas, spinach and turnips. For the plan below, your rows should run north and south to take full advantage of the sun.
Make your garden 11 rows of 10 feet each of the following veggies:
Tomatoes — 5 plants staked
Zucchini squash — 4 plants
Peppers — 6 plants
Cabbage
Bush beans
Lettuce, leaf and/or Bibb
Beets
Carrots
Chard
Radish
Marigolds to discourage rabbits!
Leave 2 feet between bush beans, 1/2 foot between bush beans and lettuce, and 1 foot between all of the rest.
(Note: If this garden is too large for your needs, you do not have to plant all 11 rows, and you can also make the rows shorter. You can choose the veggies that you'd like to grow!)
If you're interested in planting potatoes, just remember that tomatoes and potatoes are not ideal companions and need "distance.
One of the common errors for beginners is planting too much too soon and way more than anybody could eat or want. Unless you want to have zucchini taking up residence in your attic, plan carefully. Start small.
The Very Basics
Here are some very basic concepts on topics you'll want to explore further as you become a vegetable gardener extraordinaire:
Vegetables love the sun. They require six hours (continuous, if possible) of sunlight each day, at least.
Vegetables must have good, loamy, well-drained soil. Most backyard soil is not perfect and needs a helping hand. Check with your local nursery or county extension office about soil testing, soil types, and soil enrichment.
Placement is everything. Like humans, vegetables need proper nutrition. A vegetable garden too near a tree will lose its nutrients to the tree's greedy root system. On the other hand, a garden close to the house will help to discourage wild animals from nibbling away your potential harvest.
Vegetables need lots of water, at least one inch of water a week. In the early spring, walk around your property to see where the snow melts first, when the sun catches in warm pockets. This will make a difference in how well your vegetables grow.
Study those seed catalogs and order early.
Deciding How Big
A good-size beginner vegetable garden is 10x16 feet and features crops that are easy to grow. A plot this size, planted as suggested below, can feed a family of four for one summer, with a little extra for canning and freezing (or giving away).
Vegetables that may yield more than one crop per season are beans, beets, carrots, cabbage, kohlrabi, lettuce, radishes, rutabagas, spinach and turnips. For the plan below, your rows should run north and south to take full advantage of the sun.
Make your garden 11 rows of 10 feet each of the following veggies:
Tomatoes — 5 plants staked
Zucchini squash — 4 plants
Peppers — 6 plants
Cabbage
Bush beans
Lettuce, leaf and/or Bibb
Beets
Carrots
Chard
Radish
Marigolds to discourage rabbits!
Leave 2 feet between bush beans, 1/2 foot between bush beans and lettuce, and 1 foot between all of the rest.
(Note: If this garden is too large for your needs, you do not have to plant all 11 rows, and you can also make the rows shorter. You can choose the veggies that you'd like to grow!)
If you're interested in planting potatoes, just remember that tomatoes and potatoes are not ideal companions and need "distance.
Companion Planting: The Three Sisters
The classic example of happy companion plants is the legendary "three sisters"—corn, pole beans, and either pumpkins or squash. This trio is one of the easiest and most satisfying to grow.
Tips for growing the three sisters:
To try them in your garden, in spring, prepare the soil by adding fish scraps or wood ash to increase fertility, if desired.
When the danger of frost has passed, plant six kernels of corn an inch deep and about ten inches apart in a circle about 2 feet in diameter.
As the corn grows, mound up the soil around the base of the stalks until a hill about a foot high and 3 feet wide is formed.
When the corn is about 5 inches tall, plant four bean seeds, evenly spaced, around each stalk. About a week later, plant six squash seeds, evenly spaced, around the perimeter of the mound.
Each of the sisters contributes something to the planting. Together, the sisters provide a balanced diet from a single planting.
As older sisters often do, the corn offers the beans needed support.
The beans, the giving sister, pull nitrogen from the air and bring it to the soil for the benefit of all three.
As the beans grow through the tangle of squash vines and wind their way up the cornstalks into the sunlight, they hold the sisters close together.
The large leaves of the sprawling squash protect the threesome by creating living mulch that shades the soil, keeping it cool and moist and preventing weeds.
The prickly squash leaves also keep away raccoons, which don't like to step on them.
By the time European settlers arrived in America in the early 1600s, the Iroquois had been growing the "three sisters" for over three centuries. The vegetable trio sustained the Native Americans both physically and spiritually. In legend, the plants were a gift from the gods, always to be grown together, eaten together, and celebrated together.
Tips for growing the three sisters:
To try them in your garden, in spring, prepare the soil by adding fish scraps or wood ash to increase fertility, if desired.
When the danger of frost has passed, plant six kernels of corn an inch deep and about ten inches apart in a circle about 2 feet in diameter.
As the corn grows, mound up the soil around the base of the stalks until a hill about a foot high and 3 feet wide is formed.
When the corn is about 5 inches tall, plant four bean seeds, evenly spaced, around each stalk. About a week later, plant six squash seeds, evenly spaced, around the perimeter of the mound.
Each of the sisters contributes something to the planting. Together, the sisters provide a balanced diet from a single planting.
As older sisters often do, the corn offers the beans needed support.
The beans, the giving sister, pull nitrogen from the air and bring it to the soil for the benefit of all three.
As the beans grow through the tangle of squash vines and wind their way up the cornstalks into the sunlight, they hold the sisters close together.
The large leaves of the sprawling squash protect the threesome by creating living mulch that shades the soil, keeping it cool and moist and preventing weeds.
The prickly squash leaves also keep away raccoons, which don't like to step on them.
By the time European settlers arrived in America in the early 1600s, the Iroquois had been growing the "three sisters" for over three centuries. The vegetable trio sustained the Native Americans both physically and spiritually. In legend, the plants were a gift from the gods, always to be grown together, eaten together, and celebrated together.
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